Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry Watch

Hands-on: Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel marquetry is the ultimate tribute to silicon

Ulysse Nardin didn't always get the reputation it deserved as a watchmaker. I bet most of you watching this video have no idea that Ulysse Nardin is an independently owned vertically integrated manufacturer, one of the very few that can manufacture watches entirely in-house. Over the past 22 years, the brand has become a haven for innovative and high-tech design, although the brand also specializes in more classic-style timepieces. Their 2001 Freak was far ahead of the trend and was the first watch to use silicon in its movement - no other watch has gotten around to doing so just yet. Today, Ulysse Nardin pays tribute to its pioneering silicon technology with the launch of the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry flying tourbillon, which uses silicon not only in the movement, but also on the dial.

Like other Blast models, the 30-meter water-resistant 18k white gold case stands out with its faceted lugs that alternate richly between hair-brushed and mirror-polished finishes. These futuristic lugs, designed with a sophisticated laser approach, once again embody Ulysse Nardin's mastery of modern machining, elevating an industrious approach to Haute Horlogerie standards. Looking at the sides of the case, you can see that the tops of the lugs slope down to the back of the case, leaving the sides of the case exposed. Thanks to the ultra-glass cased sapphire crystal, you can admire the dial from all angles, as well as the movement parts visible on the side of the dial.

While the case is eye-catching, it's the dial that ultimately grabs your attention first. Now, this isn’t the first time Ulysse Nardin has featured silicon inlay dials – they’ve appeared in several limited editions of the Freak X before – but this is their debut in the Blast collection. Consisting of 103 silicon wafers, Ulysse Nardin craftsmen painstakingly inlay each silicon wafer into the dial-a task that requires extremely dexterous jigsaw puzzles. One wrong move and the delicate silicon wafer could be blemished or cracked. Each marquetry piece alternates between ultra-precision matte and mirror-polished surfaces. Interestingly, the matte strips are 0.3mm thick, while the polished strips are 0.35mm thick, highlighting their fragility during setting. These precisely cut pieces and their subtly varying thickness and finish create depth and captivating play of light and shadow.

The in-house UN-176 Flying Tourbillon movement is a puzzling and beautiful movement, the movement parts are visible on the front and seem to float above the dial without any visible appendages. So, what do these components do? There is a beautifully decorated flying barrel at 12 o'clock, which can store a full week of power reserve. There is a decorative winding wheel at 2 o'clock and a power reserve indicator below it. The indicator remains static and the rotating band below it shows the stored energy. Three bars indicate full winding, while one bar warns of low energy. The reduction gear is located at 8 o'clock, below the power reserve differential and intermediate wheels. Finally, at 6 o'clock, the flying tourbillon is equipped with the Ulysse Nardin anchor constant escapement and consists of 45 components. Its complex design challenges the traditional notion of an escapement, delivering perfectly uniform impulses across the balance wheel, regardless of the state of its power reserve. Of course, the balance wheel and hairspring are made of silicon, which is highly antimagnetic.

Although there is an exhibition case back, it doesn't really show the movement - everything you need to see is on the dial - but what it does show is a blue silicon wafer, which again presents the watch in a novel way. A tribute to this material.

The watch is also compatible with other Blast Tourbillon straps, but offers two integrated straps. One is a blue water-resistant rubber strap with velvet effect and the other is a blue alligator leather strap, each secured to the wrist with an included 18k white gold depolyant clasp.

Needless to say, this watch is not for everyone. But for those who can afford it, the Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry watch is definitely a flexible option in my opinion. Its designs are at once highly technical, stunning and artistic, reflecting how Ulysse Nardin's unique mastery of watchmaking has been able to produce watches unlike anything else in the industry. No other watch offers such a platform for silicon in terms of functionality and visual beauty. It has an irrefutable wow factor that will leave the onlooker curious and wanting to know more.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry Watch

Brand Ulysse Nardin
Model Blast Free Wheel Inlay
Reference Number 1760-401-3A/3A
Case size 45mm (deep)
Case Material 18K White Gold
Water resistance 30 meters
Crystal, domed sapphire front and flat sapphire case back
Dial blue, silicon inlay
Strap Blue velvet-effect rubber, blue alligator leather, 18k white gold extension
Movement UN-176, in-house production, manual winding, silicon escapement
Power reserve 7 days
Functions hours, minutes, power reserve, flying tourbillon